We were able to get a ride out to our starting point by our French ring club member Kassandra. Kassandra was nice enough to drive us all the way out to the Canada/ American border. On the ride up we hit some serious weather including rain and hail so heavy the roads turned white. We got to East Glacier on the 19th and had to wait to get the back country permits until the next day. By the time we got our permits and got to the trail head it was about 2pm. with a distance of 10 miles until our designated camping spot at Elizabeth lake. We crossed several questionable suspension bridges which the dogs handled really well. I shouldn't have said it out loud asI'm pretty sure I jinxed myself but I mentioned how my feet were dry and happy today.
After camping at Elizabeth lake our next destination was over Red Gap pass to Many Glacier (15 miles). The morning consisted of mostly uphill switch backs reminding me just how out of shape I was. By mid day we had summited the pass and although my legs were a bit shaky I think I handled it well. The down hill side was harder than the uphill side and my knees were getting more sore with each step. It was about 7 pm and we were about 3 miles from camp when my hiking partner spotted a grizzly bear about 40 ft away. I was happy the dogs didn't see the bear and vice versa. After yelling " hey bear" "ho bear" "dey-yo" etc for 5 min the bear finally wondered off enough for us to scurry down the trail and get a safe distance away. About 15 min. later we got to the road where we had a 2 mile road walk to camp. As we approached the road a park ranger pulled over to check our paper work and offered us a ride to the camp site which I happily accepted.
At Many Glacier camp ground we met a couple other thru- hikers Baboon and Spins. A pass, several water crossings, and a few snow fields later we made it to Reynolds camp ground. It was about 10 pm by the time we got to camp and we skipped dinner to go to bed. The day was tiring to say the least. I had to use my ice axe to save myself from sliding down the snow hill a couple times. Scary! Meanwhile the dogs wrestled and rolled in the snow at the top of the pass as I clinched my ice axe for dear life.
The passes had been snow filled which slows down your pace greatly as well as makes me nervous as I am not experienced with snow fields. I again clinged to my ice axe and hoped I wouldn't need it. The fields were not exactly flat and I used the old foot steps to keep from sliding. At this point I was not scared of sliding down the snow my fear was that if I fell I would have to climb back up again. We eventually finished the toughest parts of Glacier National Park and made it to East Glacier which meant showers and laundry! Since I've been behind in my blogging I'm sure I have missed some events including seeing a HUGE bull moose, a few deer, almost being blown off a pass by 50mph winds, and now a blister for each toe. My shoes have been wet everyday since day 2 at this point. From Reynolds c.g. the day was supposed to be easy consisting of a few slight inclines but mostly just following the lake about 10 miles to Red Eagle. We woke up so excited for the easy day we jumped on trail and stared hiking. About 5 miles later while going over maps we realized we had taken the wrong trail and were 5 miles in the opposite direction Gun Sight Lake. We made it back to Reynolds around 3 where we wrapped up my blisters and prepared for the rest of the day (now 20 miles total). We again got to camp after dark and skipped dinner for sleep. By this point I had about 6 good sized blisters on my feet and my knees were both swollen and hurt to move. The water passing a over the last few days were so intense the dogs had to be leashed to keep them from being carried away down stream. Think a rapid glacier river not a meandering stream.
East Glacier was the end of Glacer National Park and the start point of the Bob Marshall wilderness. We took a Zero in East Glacier and stayed at Brownies hostel. I tried to keep my now super swollen knees elevated and iced while tending to my torn up feet. We resupplied with snacks and things before heading out the next morning to 6 days in "The Bob". We had a quick breakfast at a cafe before heading out on trail, about 30 minutes of hiking later we ended up back in East Glacier we had started our morning with a wrong turn putting us back at our starting point. An hour later we were on trail going the correct direction. Six days in The Bob turned into a blur of muddy trails, soggy blistery feet, swollen ankles, water crossings (nothing crazy just enough to keep your shoes and socks wet, amd extremely sunny burn zones. We stayed at a couple forest service pack stations while in The Bob and camped with Spins and Baboon every night while in the Bob (safety in numbers). The dogs have been keeping up great and their pads are healthy. They have been extra work but Grizby made himself useful one day in the Bob. We had just crossed a wide water crossing and I was putting my shoes and socks back on when I realized I had left a sock back on the other side. I did NOT want to cross the water again so I figured I would try to get the dog to get it. After about 5 minutes I figured out a plan I would play tug with my other sock to help him get the scent and get excited then tease him with the sock but throw a rock at the sock and in theory he should bring back the sock? After I honed in on my throwing skills he eventually picked up and brought back my sock yay!
The Chinese Wall in the Bob was beautiful and helped take my mind off my blisters. There was more bear scat and paw prints in Glacier national park than in the Bob.
BenchMark was our next resupply point and was supposed to be an easy half day to camp. We were out of snacks and had a watery fettuccine Alfredo for breakfast yumm! We normally break every hour and a half to snack and rest for 15 min but since we were out of snacks we "pushed" skipping breaks to get to Bench Mark. Once we got to the nothing there campground we learned we had to walk up the road to Bench Mark Ranch where the Heckmans would have our package. At this point I'm hungry, tired, and ready to cut off my feet they hurt so bad. A truck pulled over to ask what we were up to we explained we were CDT thru hikers and they offered us a ride to the ranch. I tossed the equipment and Grizby into the bed of the truck and felt a huge relief. It ended up being about 2-3 miles up the road which made me even more thankful for the hitch. They asked if we needed anything and I told them about my feet. 20 min. later they returned with a blister care kit, duct tape, and ibuprofen! Rayleigh and her husband were so nice we appreciated the much needed trail magic. We raided the hiker box and gorged ourselves with cliff bars and a variety of trail mixes before tending to my feet. The Heckmans returned to the property and were very friendly and welcoming but told us we should camp down at the grounds which meant more walking. The daughter offered to give us a ride down to the campground and we happily accepted the ride. The next morning we were supposed to start the Scape Goat Wilderness and had 2.5 days until Lincoln our next resupply. After spending 20 min. wrapping my feet I tried to put on my shoes and here starts the bump in the road. My feet are so swollen they won't fit in my shoes ( already 2 sizes larger than I normally wear). At this point I have a small break down where I'm ready to throw in the towel. The problem is that there is NOTHING in Benchmark so we needed to find a way out. I " yogi'd" a family camping nearby to offer us a ride to Augusta another small town 30 miles away. The man who gave us the ride was a seasoned rancher he gave us the 411 on the small town before taking off we offered to buy him lunch but he declined. We hobbled around town getting lunch at Lazy Bs cafe before heading to the exit of town to start our hitch.
We set up on the edge of town and within 40 min. A mid 20 year old guy pulled over in a ford escape and said he would give us a ride to the 4 way intersection half way to Lincoln. The young man was from Montana but was currently living in Hermosa beach ca. Small world. As we approached the drop off point he offered us some beef jerky, water, and gave us a handful of ibuprofen after watching me gimp away. We munched on the beef jerky while waiting for the next hitch which came about 5 min. later. A man in a truck pulled over quickly and stayed in the car while we threw our supplies an dogs into the bed of the truck.
It didn't take long for this ride to get sketchy if you are a worrier read no further...
We get in the truck and the man immediately starts talking about how he's on his way to Missoula to see his son and to pay for his rent at college. He then offered us a couple beers for the drive looking into the small area behind the seat it was full of empty beer cans and old cans of chew. This man was drunk as a skunk. I drank one of the beers I help calm my nerves and I clinged to the "oh shit" bar. He then slurred on about how himself and his wife were having marriage issues. Several swerves and near kisses to the railing later he pulled over at a gas station at the far end of Lincoln to fill up on gas and more beer. We thanked him for the ride and quickly unloaded our stuff from the truck bed. The man teared up when saying goodbye and asked if we wanted to go to Missoula with him. We declined and thanked him again for his hospitality. I felt. Although my feet were killing me I was happy my feet were safely on the ground in Lincoln Montana.
WARNING!!
Below are some gross pictures of my feet and blisters. Enjoy : )
Hey Bethany,
ReplyDeleteIt's Jim from the Crossroads kennel. Your pictures are amazing and those blisters, well... ouch! I can relate to that to a small degree from my military days but you have some doozies. I'm pullin' for you because your on an amazing adventure. Seems Like Grizby is an old trail hand (or paw that is) for sure. God Bless and I hope you feet and knees get better. Take care and be safe - Jim
Keep on keeping on Bethany! WOW those feet ouch. My friends and I are all rooting for you.
ReplyDelete